Desert Train

The SNIM mineral train has linked the iron mines of Zouérat, in the heart of Kédia d'Idjil, to the mineral port of Nouadhibou on the Atlantic coast since 1963. Over 704 kilometres of single-track line, it cuts a straight path through the Tiris and western Mauritanian Sahara, an almost uninhabited zone where the only signs of life are the technical stations at Choum, F'Dérik and Boulenoir. With 200 to 220 wagons laden with ore and stretching 2.5 kilometres long, it ranks among the world's longest trains in active service.

For travellers, the experience unfolds over a night and a day on board. Departing from Zouérat or Choum, the train speeds towards Nouadhibou with its empty ore cars returning from cargo runs. Boarding these open-top wagons is free—you settle onto bare metal, rucksack wedged in, tagelmust wrapped tight around your face. A passenger car does exist, around 1,200 ouguiya (roughly thirty euros), with basic benches and little comfort to speak of. Both options deliver the same thing: 18 to 20 hours of desert rolling past, punctuated by technical stops in the middle of the night.

The landscape is mineral, with little relief once you leave Kédia behind. Sand, black regs, a few scattered acacias, low dunes towards Inal. At sunset, the angled light transforms the plain into russet-ochre. Night falls swiftly and stars flood the sky; the complete absence of light pollution means the Milky Way is distinct as soon as the moon clears. By early morning, the train approaches the coast and Atlantic mist replaces iron dust.

This journey is no packaged tourist excursion. It's an industrial convoy that transports over 12 million tonnes of ore annually—the country's primary export resource. Travellers share the wagons with a few SNIM workers, merchants heading to Nouadhibou, occasionally families visiting relatives. Exchanges happen in Hassaniya or French, around tea brewed on a small gas stove wedged between wagons during stops.

Choum, midway, is the logical junction point with Adrar. Many travellers disembark or board here to pair the train with Atar, Chinguetti and the Adrar plateau, 120 kilometres away across the track. F'Dérik and Zouérat, further north, are functional mining towns with no touristic draw themselves but useful as logistical bases. Nouadhibou, the coastal terminus, opens onto Banc d'Arguin and its Imraguen fishermen.

Iron dust is the decisive factor. It seeps everywhere, stains clothing, dries your throat. Sealed goggles and a tight tagelmust are essential—we provide both. The nocturnal cold surprises: in winter, December to February, temperatures in the wagon drop to 5°C with the wind chill, and you'll need a down jacket, hat and sleeping bag even if the day has been warm. We organise this crossing with an English-speaking guide who manages SNIM contacts, water and food provisions (3 to 4 litres per person minimum) and safety in the wagon.

To discover

Boarding at Zouérat or Choum. Waiting for the convoy trackside, sometimes several hours, then quick climb into an empty wagon before departure. Logistics are sorted with SNIM staff on the spot.

Nocturnal crossing of the Tiris. Several hours of rolling beneath a starlit sky with no light on the horizon, cold wind and the constant grind of axles on rails.

Technical stops in the dead of night. The convoy halts once or twice to pass an oncoming train or change crews—a chance to step down for a few minutes, walk between wagons and brew tea.

Arrival at Nouadhibou at dawn. Gradual emergence of Atlantic fog, salt-air scent after 700 kilometres of dry dust, unloading at the Cansado mineral port.

Natural transition to Adrar via Choum. Disembark at Choum at 4am and drive to Atar in a 4x4 across 120 kilometres of track, then continue to Chinguetti and the plateau.

When to go

The practical window runs from mid-October to mid-March. In winter (December to February), daytime temperatures stay pleasant (20 to 25°C) but the thermometer plummets sharply at night in an open wagon, down to 5°C with the train's wind chill. October-November and February-March offer a compromise: nights around 12 to 15°C, slightly warmer days. April to September, we firmly advise against the journey—temperatures exceed 40°C during the day in the Tiris and heated iron dust becomes unbreathable.

Sand-wind season, February to April, can turn the trip into an ordeal if the harmattan picks up: visibility reduced to metres, abrasive particles non-stop. We check forecasts 48 hours before departure and reschedule if needed. The train runs year-round, at one to two convoys per day in each direction, with no officially published timetable.

Practical advice

The desert train makes sense only as part of at least a 15-day Mauritanian circuit. Taken alone, it represents 36 to 40 hours of logistics (transport, waiting, journey, retrieval) for a single leg—only justified as part of a north-south traverse. We consistently pair it with Adrar (Atar, Chinguetti, Ouadane) beforehand from Choum, and Banc d'Arguin afterwards from Nouadhibou. Entry points are Atar or Nouakchott airport, with 4x4 transfer to Choum or Zouérat.

This journey suits seasoned travellers in good physical condition, with no respiratory issues or weak backs. The wagon offers zero comfort; you sleep on metal with a thin mat we provide. Contemplative travellers, photographers, industrial logistics enthusiasts or lovers of extreme landscapes will find their reward here. We advise against it for children under 14, claustrophobic passengers and those seeking creature comforts. Our English-speaking guide stays with the group from departure through disembarkation, managing water, food and liaison with railway staff.