Mauritania is far from empty. The country remains a genuine land of nomadic herders raising cattle, sheep, and camelids in the regions of Brakna, Assaba, and Hodh in the south, as well as in several valleys of the Tagant.

In the northern regions—Inchiri, Amsaga, Tiris-Zemmour, and Adrar—herds consist primarily of goats and camels (dromedaries). The camel population is estimated at no fewer than 800,000 animals.

A nomadic life...

Throughout your journey, especially where grazing is abundant, you may spot nomadic tents, brown (made from wool and hair) or white (canvas), with edges raised whenever it grows hot or windless. These nomads are generally welcoming, though visits are only appropriate when there is genuine reason to call. You may have the opportunity to enter a tent and enjoy tea (three glasses, as custom dictates!) and zrig—fresh or soured milk mixed with sweetened water. Such invitations are rare, however, as those familiar with local customs know that entering a tent uninvited is not the custom, particularly when the nomads encountered are not family of your guide or the camel herders accompanying you.

Camel herds—of camels, she-camels, and calves—are everywhere, alongside goats, sheep, cattle, and donkeys. During the hot season, even when pasture is lush and green, watching all these animals patiently await their turn at the wells or oglats (clusters of wells) is a truly mesmerizing sight.